“The British Empire was created as a by-product of generations of desperate Englishmen roaming the world in search of a decent meal.” - Bill Marsano

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Lemonade

I had a craving for home-made lemonade the other day. I was thirsty and it was hot, and so I stopped at the store and picked up a large bag of lemons.

Lemonade is easy, but it needs to be planned ahead. There are three ingredients - lemon juice, sugar and water. The first step is to make a sugar syrup. Put in a small saucepan - 1 cup of sugar and 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, and then remove from heat and cool to room temperature, before chilling in the fridge. Meanwhile, juice 2 lb of lemons. A juicer would do the job nicely. I do not have one, so I cut them in half and juiced them by hand with a reamer. Pour the juice through a strainer to remove any small seeds (or a fine strainer if you don't like any pulp in your lemonade), and chill in the refrigerator.

Once syrup and juice are cold, you are ready to make your lemonade. Pour the juice into a bowl, and add half of the syrup. Taste. If the lemonade is too tart (acidic), add more syrup until it tastes right. Once the sugar balances the acidity, decide if the overall sweetness is to your liking. I like my lemonade less sweet, so I diluted it with cold water (about an equal volume of lemonade to water). Put some ice cubes in a glass and pour in your lemonade. Enjoy on a hot day!

Metric Info: 1 cup = 240 ml; 2 lb = 900g.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Chocolate Chip Cookies are a standby in our household. We make a batch every few weeks, when we get a hankering for something sweet. They are easy and quick, and mostly use ingredients that are always around. The recipe is minimally adapted from one in the manual for our Kitchenaid mixer.

Note that your butter should be left out at room temperature for about an hour before you start.

Start by creaming 8 oz softened butter (2 sticks; see above) with 1 cup sugar and 1 cup brown sugar. This means that you beat it with the paddle until it gets creamy and smooth. Reduce the speed on the mixer and add, one at a time, 2 eggs and 2 tsp vanilla extract, mixing until combined. Stop the mixer and combine 3 cups flour with 1 tsp baking soda and 1 tsp salt. Start the mixer on 'stir' speed, and slowly add the flour mixture, continuing to mix until combined. Then add 12 oz (1 bag) chocolate chips, and mix just long enough to disperse them evenly through the dough.

Line 3 cookie sheets with parchment paper, and scoop 1 tsp of dough per cookie, spaced 2 inches apart. Bake at 375 F in a preheated oven for 9-11 minutes, until just starting to brown. Remove immediately from the sheet to a wire rack to cool.

Enjoy with a large glass of cold milk!

Metric Info: 8 oz = 225g; 1 cup = 240 ml; 3 cups = 710 ml; 12 oz = 340g; 2 inches = 5 cm; 375 F = 190 C.

Monday, January 31, 2011

Anise Cookies

Sorry, no photo for this one - the cookies disappeared too quickly...

These are a simple 'cakey' (i.e. soft, not crisp) sugar cookie, flavored with anise extract.

Start by softening 1 cup (8 oz; 2 sticks) butter at room temperature for at least 1 hour. Once soft, beat in a mixer with the paddle attachment until smooth. Add 3/4 cup sugar and cream (keep beating until smooth again). Slow down to stir speed and add 3 cups flour, 3 tsp baking powder, 1/4 tsp salt and 1 tsp anise extract. Stir until combined, then stir in 2 eggs, until a smooth dough forms.

Form your dough into small balls, and set directly on 2 cookie sheets. Bake in a preheated oven at 350 F for 15 minutes, switching the sheets halfway through. Once the time is up, transfer the cookies to a cooling rack and allow to cool completely. Enjoy!

Note 1 - Be sure to use anise extract or anise flavoring for this recipe. Anise oil can be substituted, but very sparingly - 1/4 tsp would probably be too much. I made this mistake once, and the cookies were painfully anise-y!

Note 2 - Apologies for the lack of weight measures in this recipe. I threw these together quickly and did not figure out weights.

Note 3 - Metric Info: 8 oz = 225g; 3/4 cup = 180 ml; 3 cups = 700 ml; 350 F = 175 C.

Ginger Cookies

I came across this recipe (and minimally adapted it) in Alton Brown's excellent book 'I'm Just Here for More Food'. Faced with a craving for cookies and a lack of white sugar, these fit the bill nicely.

These are icebox cookies, meaning that you make the dough the day before and chill it in the refrigerator overnight, so plan accordingly.

Start by softening 4 oz (1 stick) butter by leaving it at room temperature for at least an hour. Put it in a mixer and beat with the paddle until smooth. Add 8 oz brown sugar and 1 tbsp molasses, and cream (beat) together until smooth again. Slow the mixer down to stir and add 1 egg. Once incorporated, add 9.5 oz flour, 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp baking soda, 2 tsp ground ginger and 1/4 tsp salt. Mix just until combined. Lay out 2 pieces of parchment paper. Drop half of your dough onto each piece of paper and roll up into two 2 inch diameter logs. Twist the paper at the ends to 'seal' and set in the refrigerator overnight to chill.

The next day, preheat the oven to 375 F, and line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper. Slice each log into 1/4 inch slices, and lay out on the cookie sheets. Bake for 8-10 minutes, switching the positions of the sheets halfway through. They are ready to remove when the centers have set but they are still soft. Remove the cookies from the sheet (keep them on the paper - just slide it off the sheet) to a cooling rack, and leave to cool. Enjoy!

Note 1 - For UK readers, molasses = treacle, and baking soda = bicarbonate of soda.

Note 2 - These cookies are halfway between chewy and crispy. The longer you leave them in the oven, the crispier they will become.

Note 3 - Metric Info: 4 oz = 110g; 9.5 oz = 270g; 2 inches = 5 cm; 375 F = 190 C; 1/4 inch = 6 mm.

Friday, December 3, 2010

Bakewell Tart


This one is an English classic - half tart, half cake, with jam, almond-flavored sponge and simple white icing. My mother used to make this quite often when I was a child, and it brings back memories.

There seem to be two schools of thought on how to make the cake. You can make a sponge cake, or you can make a pound cake. The ingredients are the same; what matters is exactly how you combine them. I made a sponge, but I'll detail how to do it as a pound cake at the end.

First, you need a tart shell, and it should be baked blind (this means empty; baked without filling). Find a recipe for the tart dough here, and you should barely need half of the recipe. Or you can use any other suitable pie/tart dough recipe. Roll it out fairly thinly and use it to line a greased 9-inch tart pan. I used a shallow 9 inch pie pan, as it is all I have, but I would recommend something deeper, as it will allow for a thicker cake layer (I was left with some extra sponge mix that wouldn't fit in the pan). Put the pan in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to chill the dough.

Next, top your dough with a piece of foil, and top that with some oven-safe weights (e.g. baking beans - dried beans reserved for baking). Bake at 350 F until it begins to brown (maybe 10-15 min), then remove the foil and weights and bake another 5-10 minutes to brown the base. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

Once your tart shell is cooled, brush the base with 1 egg white, beaten (save the yolk), then top with a thick layer of jam. I prefer raspberry, but the type of fruit is not set in stone. Set the pan aside while you make the filling.

For the filling, start by putting your yolk into a mixer bowl. Add 3 more eggs and 6 oz sugar, and set up like a double boiler - get about 1 inch of water simmering in a small saucepan, and set the mixer bowl in the top of the pan, ensuring that the bottom of the bowl is clear of the water. Whisk the eggs constantly while they are over the heat. Keep going until the eggs are very warm (you do not want them to get real hot, as they will eventually curdle). At this point, put the mixer bowl on your mixer and whisk the eggs until they triple in volume.

Meanwhile, melt 6 oz butter (and then allow to cool at room temperature) and sift 6 oz almond flour (aka ground almonds) or a mixture of almond flour and flour, or all flour if you prefer, with a pinch of salt.

Once the eggs are done, carefully fold in the flour mixture, the melted butter and a few drops of almond extract (use more if you did not use almond flour), just until blended. Pour into your tart shell and put straight into the oven (at 350 F) for about 30 minutes, until set and just starting to brown on top. Remove from the oven and cool in the pan on a rack.

Once the tart has completely cooled, you can ice it. Combine 2 floz milk and 4.5 oz powdered sugar and whisk until fully combined. Pour over the cake and spread into an even thin layer with a spatula or knife. Transfer the tart to the refrigerator to chill.

Once chilled, you can decorate the top of the tart with glacé cherries (candied preserved cherries; I could not find them so I substituted drained maraschino cherries). Slice; serve; enjoy!

Note 1 - Pound cake variation (this should yield a firmer cake filling): Keep quantities and ingredients the same, but begin by softening the butter (just leave at room temperature for about an hour; do not melt) and creaming it with the sugar in a mixer with the paddle attachment. Keep going until it is very light and creamy. Stir in the eggs (and yolk) and almond extract on low speed, then fold in the flours, pour into the prepared tart shell and bake until cooked through (toothpick inserted into center comes out almost clean).

Note 2 - Metric Info: 9 inches = 23 cm; 350 F =175 C; 6 oz = 170g; 2 floz = 60 ml; 4.5 oz = 130g.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Poached Pears


Pears are my second favorite fruit, after dates. While there is little better than a ripe pear, an unripe pear can be poached and will taste great. I got hold of some Anjou pears from the store for this recipe, but you can use pretty much any kind, so long as they are not too soft.

Pears can be poached in a simple syrup (water and sugar) or in a wine or port syrup. Port is my favorite, but I didn't have any on hand, just 2 cups of red wine left over from making the beef stew. You could also use white wine if you like.

Start by boiling 2 cups red wine, 1 cup water and 10 oz sugar and some whole spices until the sugar dissolves. The spices are your choice. I like to use any or all of the following: clove, cinnamon, star anise, cardamom (remove from pods), black peppercorn. Once the 'mulled wine' is hot and the sugar dissolved, peel 3 pears. Cut in half and scoop or cut out the cores, stem and base. Immerse the pear halves in the wine mixture and return to a simmer. Cover your pan and cook gently until the pears are tender (soft but not mushy). Remove pears (chill in refrigerator) and strain out spices, then return the liquid to the pan and boil it down into a heavy syrup.

Serve the pears cold with warm syrup and ice cream (I used cinnamon ice cream - see variations here) or custard sauce. Any leftover syrup makes a great accompaniment to ice cream. Enjoy!

Note - Metric Info: 2 cups = 470 ml; 1 cup = 240 ml; 10 oz = 280g.

Boeuf Bourgignon (Beef Burgundy)


I don't know why it has taken me so long to write about this, as it is my favorite dish. The first time I ate it was in a restaurant in Paris. That was the moment I fell in love with French food. It was also an important moment in my life as a cook. It made me want to cook, and planted the seed of the idea to cook for a living.

Boeuf Bourgignon is basically stewing beef, braised in red wine (traditionally red Burgundy, hence the name), with bacon, pearl onions and mushrooms. Especially when it is cold outside, it doesn't get much better than that.

Start with your beef. This can be any of the cheaper beef cuts typically used for stews. I usually use chuck or round. You will need 1 lb of stewing beef. Cut it into large (about 1 inch) chunks, dry by blotting with paper towels, and season generously with salt and pepper.

Next, render 1 slice of bacon, diced in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or small stockpot (it must not be non-stick, it must have a lid, and it must be large enough to accommodate the entire stew). This means cooking it on medium-low heat until it gives up its fat. Let it get a little crispy but not burned. Remove the bacon and set aside in a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. Add a splash of vegetable oil and turn up the heat. Next, add, in small batches (you must not overcrowd the pan, as it the meat will not sear) your beef chunks. Once the chunks are nicely browned on one side, flip them over and brown the second side. Be careful not to allow the oil to get too hot, as it can smoke and burn the meat. Remove the beef and set aside with the bacon. At this point, there should be brown stuff stuck to the bottom of your pan. This is flavor. Do not get rid of it!

Turn the heat down a little and add a splash more oil to your pan. Add about 12 oz mirepoix. Mirepoix is a mix of diced carrot (about 3 oz), celery (about 3 oz) and onion (about 6 oz). Add also 1 clove garlic, minced. Season with salt and pepper and saute until the onions start to soften (about 10 minutes). Add 2 tbsp flour, stirring for about 1 minute, then 1 tbsp tomato paste, stirring for another minute. Now add 1 cup red wine and 1 cup beef broth, along with 1 bay leaf and a little salt and pepper. Return the beef and bacon to the pan and bring up to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the goodness on the bottom of the pan. Put the lid on the pan. Simmer gently for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the beef is fork tender.

While the stew is cooking, peel 8 oz pearl (boiling) onions, halving them if large. Place in a flat pan (a small frying or omelet pan would work) with about 1 tbsp butter, a big pinch of sugar and a small pinch of salt. Cover with water and cook on medium heat until the water is all gone - be careful not to let them burn. Transfer to the stew once done, and allow them to cook in it.

Clean 10 oz button mushrooms (remove any dirt) and cut in half, leaving stems attached. Saute in a little butter with salt and pepper, until all of their liquid is gone. Add to the stew and allow them to cook in it.

Once your beef is cooked tender, check the seasoning of your stew and adjust as necessary. Remove the bay leaf before serving (as you can see from the picture, I forgot). Serve with potatoes (mashed, boiled, however you like) and/or crusty bread to mop up the sauce, and a glass of red. Enjoy! Serves about 4 people.

Note 1 - You can use all red wine (i.e. 2 cups) if you do not want to use beef broth. I am still undecided about which way is better.

Note 2 - Stewing beef can often be found pre-chunked in wrapped packs at the supermarket. This is fine, and saves you a step.

Note 3 - Provided your pan is oven-proof, you can cook the stew in the oven instead of on the stovetop. Bring it to a simmer on the stove and then transfer it to a 300 F oven (with lid on). Cook until the beef is tender.

Note 4 - You can use pretty much any kind of red wine for this stew. I almost always use something cheap - I am not of the belief that an expensive, well-balanced wine will taste any better than something very cheap. You are cooking most of the alcohol out and infusing a lot of other great flavors into it. Any balance will be completely changed. Not to say that a great wine wouldn't taste good in the stew - I just don't see the point in the expense. Probably a smart thing to do is buy a lower-priced red that you enjoy drinking. If you use 1 cup in the stew, that will leave you about 2 cups to drink with it.

Note 5 - Metric Info: 1 lb = 450g; 12 oz = 340g; 3oz = 85g; 6oz = 170g; 1 cup = 240 ml; 8 oz = 225g; 10 oz = 280g; 300 F = 150 C.