Bakewell Tart

This one is an English classic - half tart, half cake, with jam, almond-flavored sponge and simple white icing. My mother used to make this quite often when I was a child, and it brings back memories.

There seem to be two schools of thought on how to make the cake. You can make a sponge cake, or you can make a pound cake. The ingredients are the same; what matters is exactly how you combine them. I made a sponge, but I'll detail how to do it as a pound cake at the end.

First, you need a tart shell, and it should be baked blind (this means empty; baked without filling). Find a recipe for the tart dough here, and you should barely need half of the recipe. Or you can use any other suitable pie/tart dough recipe. Roll it out fairly thinly and use it to line a greased 9-inch tart pan. I used a shallow 9 inch pie pan, as it is all I have, but I would recommend something deeper, as it will allow for a thicker cake layer (I was left with some extra sponge mix that wouldn't fit in the pan). Put the pan in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to chill the dough.

Next, top your dough with a piece of foil, and top that with some oven-safe weights (e.g. baking beans - dried beans reserved for baking). Bake at 350 F until it begins to brown (maybe 10-15 min), then remove the foil and weights and bake another 5-10 minutes to brown the base. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature.

Once your tart shell is cooled, brush the base with 1 egg white, beaten (save the yolk), then top with a thick layer of jam. I prefer raspberry, but the type of fruit is not set in stone. Set the pan aside while you make the filling.

For the filling, start by putting your yolk into a mixer bowl. Add 3 more eggs and 6 oz sugar, and set up like a double boiler - get about 1 inch of water simmering in a small saucepan, and set the mixer bowl in the top of the pan, ensuring that the bottom of the bowl is clear of the water. Whisk the eggs constantly while they are over the heat. Keep going until the eggs are very warm (you do not want them to get real hot, as they will eventually curdle). At this point, put the mixer bowl on your mixer and whisk the eggs until they triple in volume.

Meanwhile, melt 6 oz butter (and then allow to cool at room temperature) and sift 6 oz almond flour (aka ground almonds) or a mixture of almond flour and flour, or all flour if you prefer, with a pinch of salt.

Once the eggs are done, carefully fold in the flour mixture, the melted butter and a few drops of almond extract (use more if you did not use almond flour), just until blended. Pour into your tart shell and put straight into the oven (at 350 F) for about 30 minutes, until set and just starting to brown on top. Remove from the oven and cool in the pan on a rack.

Once the tart has completely cooled, you can ice it. Combine 2 floz milk and 4.5 oz powdered sugar and whisk until fully combined. Pour over the cake and spread into an even thin layer with a spatula or knife. Transfer the tart to the refrigerator to chill.

Once chilled, you can decorate the top of the tart with glacé cherries (candied preserved cherries; I could not find them so I substituted drained maraschino cherries). Slice; serve; enjoy!

Note 1 - Pound cake variation (this should yield a firmer cake filling): Keep quantities and ingredients the same, but begin by softening the butter (just leave at room temperature for about an hour; do not melt) and creaming it with the sugar in a mixer with the paddle attachment. Keep going until it is very light and creamy. Stir in the eggs (and yolk) and almond extract on low speed, then fold in the flours, pour into the prepared tart shell and bake until cooked through (toothpick inserted into center comes out almost clean).

Note 2 - Metric Info: 9 inches = 23 cm; 350 F =175 C; 6 oz = 170g; 2 floz = 60 ml; 4.5 oz = 130g.

Poached Pears

Pears are my second favorite fruit, after dates. While there is little better than a ripe pear, an unripe pear can be poached and will taste great. I got hold of some Anjou pears from the store for this recipe, but you can use pretty much any kind, so long as they are not too soft.

Pears can be poached in a simple syrup (water and sugar) or in a wine or port syrup. Port is my favorite, but I didn't have any on hand, just 2 cups of red wine left over from making the beef stew. You could also use white wine if you like.

Start by boiling 2 cups red wine, 1 cup water and 10 oz sugar and some whole spices until the sugar dissolves. The spices are your choice. I like to use any or all of the following: clove, cinnamon, star anise, cardamom (remove from pods), black peppercorn. Once the 'mulled wine' is hot and the sugar dissolved, peel 3 pears. Cut in half and scoop or cut out the cores, stem and base. Immerse the pear halves in the wine mixture and return to a simmer. Cover your pan and cook gently until the pears are tender (soft but not mushy). Remove pears (chill in refrigerator) and strain out spices, then return the liquid to the pan and boil it down into a heavy syrup.

Serve the pears cold with warm syrup and ice cream (I used cinnamon ice cream - see variations here) or custard sauce. Any leftover syrup makes a great accompaniment to ice cream. Enjoy!

Note - Metric Info: 2 cups = 470 ml; 1 cup = 240 ml; 10 oz = 280g.

Boeuf Bourgignon (Beef Burgundy)

I don't know why it has taken me so long to write about this, as it is my favorite dish. The first time I ate it was in a restaurant in Paris. That was the moment I fell in love with French food. It was also an important moment in my life as a cook. It made me want to cook, and planted the seed of the idea to cook for a living.

Boeuf Bourgignon is basically stewing beef, braised in red wine (traditionally red Burgundy, hence the name), with bacon, pearl onions and mushrooms. Especially when it is cold outside, it doesn't get much better than that.

Start with your beef. This can be any of the cheaper beef cuts typically used for stews. I usually use chuck or round. You will need 1 lb of stewing beef. Cut it into large (about 1 inch) chunks, dry by blotting with paper towels, and season generously with salt and pepper.

Next, render 1 slice of bacon, diced in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan or small stockpot (it must not be non-stick, it must have a lid, and it must be large enough to accommodate the entire stew). This means cooking it on medium-low heat until it gives up its fat. Let it get a little crispy but not burned. Remove the bacon and set aside in a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. Add a splash of vegetable oil and turn up the heat. Next, add, in small batches (you must not overcrowd the pan, as it the meat will not sear) your beef chunks. Once the chunks are nicely browned on one side, flip them over and brown the second side. Be careful not to allow the oil to get too hot, as it can smoke and burn the meat. Remove the beef and set aside with the bacon. At this point, there should be brown stuff stuck to the bottom of your pan. This is flavor. Do not get rid of it!

Turn the heat down a little and add a splash more oil to your pan. Add about 12 oz mirepoix. Mirepoix is a mix of diced carrot (about 3 oz), celery (about 3 oz) and onion (about 6 oz). Add also 1 clove garlic, minced. Season with salt and pepper and saute until the onions start to soften (about 10 minutes). Add 2 tbsp flour, stirring for about 1 minute, then 1 tbsp tomato paste, stirring for another minute. Now add 1 cup red wine and 1 cup beef broth, along with 1 bay leaf and a little salt and pepper. Return the beef and bacon to the pan and bring up to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the goodness on the bottom of the pan. Put the lid on the pan. Simmer gently for 1.5 to 2 hours, until the beef is fork tender.

While the stew is cooking, peel 8 oz pearl (boiling) onions, halving them if large. Place in a flat pan (a small frying or omelet pan would work) with about 1 tbsp butter, a big pinch of sugar and a small pinch of salt. Cover with water and cook on medium heat until the water is all gone - be careful not to let them burn. Transfer to the stew once done, and allow them to cook in it.

Clean 10 oz button mushrooms (remove any dirt) and cut in half, leaving stems attached. Saute in a little butter with salt and pepper, until all of their liquid is gone. Add to the stew and allow them to cook in it.

Once your beef is cooked tender, check the seasoning of your stew and adjust as necessary. Remove the bay leaf before serving (as you can see from the picture, I forgot). Serve with potatoes (mashed, boiled, however you like) and/or crusty bread to mop up the sauce, and a glass of red. Enjoy! Serves about 4 people.

Note 1 - You can use all red wine (i.e. 2 cups) if you do not want to use beef broth. I am still undecided about which way is better.

Note 2 - Stewing beef can often be found pre-chunked in wrapped packs at the supermarket. This is fine, and saves you a step.

Note 3 - Provided your pan is oven-proof, you can cook the stew in the oven instead of on the stovetop. Bring it to a simmer on the stove and then transfer it to a 300 F oven (with lid on). Cook until the beef is tender.

Note 4 - You can use pretty much any kind of red wine for this stew. I almost always use something cheap - I am not of the belief that an expensive, well-balanced wine will taste any better than something very cheap. You are cooking most of the alcohol out and infusing a lot of other great flavors into it. Any balance will be completely changed. Not to say that a great wine wouldn't taste good in the stew - I just don't see the point in the expense. Probably a smart thing to do is buy a lower-priced red that you enjoy drinking. If you use 1 cup in the stew, that will leave you about 2 cups to drink with it.

Note 5 - Metric Info: 1 lb = 450g; 12 oz = 340g; 3oz = 85g; 6oz = 170g; 1 cup = 240 ml; 8 oz = 225g; 10 oz = 280g; 300 F = 150 C.

Banana Bread with Caramel Ice Cream

I love banana bread, and it's easy to make. It's perfect for when you have some bananas that are getting a little soft, and you need to use them up. The recipe is from 'The Good Housekeeping Cookbook'.

Start by softening the butter by pulling it out of the refrigerator and leaving it at room temperature for an hour. In a bowl, combine 2.5 cups (11 oz) flour with 2 tsp baking powder, 3/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp baking soda. In another bowl, mash 3 bananas and combine with 1/4 cup milk and 2 tsp vanilla extract.

In a stand mixer (or a large bowl with a hand mixer, or even with a whisk if you need to), beat 4 oz softened butter with 1 cup sugar until creamy. Beat in 2 eggs, then reduce the mixer speed and add about 1/4 of your dry mix. Once combined, mix in 1/3 of your wet mix, then keep going until the last 1/4 of your dry mix is in. Pour your batter into a greased loaf pan and bake at 350 F for at least an hour, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack, and allow to cool completely. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap and foil and keep at cool room temperature overnight. It tastes better the next day. Enjoy!

To make the caramel ice cream, start by setting up a medium metal bowl on ice, with a strainer in it. Next, measure 7 oz sugar and enough water to make it wet in a heavy pan. Heat on medium until the sugar caramelizes (I like it to get golden brown, but no darker) to the desired point. Carefully (it will boil furiously) and slowly, add 1 pint half and half, stirring. Allow to return almost to a simmer, stirring regularly. Do not allow it to boil. Meanwhile, whisk 5 egg yolks. Ladle some hot half and half into the yolks. Whisk quickly and pour back into the saucepan. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. When this point is reached, immediately pour it through the strainer into the cold bowl. Once the mixture has cooled a little, chill in the refrigerator and then churn in an ice cream machine. Transfer to the freezer for a few hours. Enjoy with the banana bread.

Note 1 - If you like walnuts in your banana bread, stir in 4 oz of chopped (preferably also toasted) nuts just before pouring the batter into the loaf pan.

Note 2 - Metric Info: 11 oz = 310g; 1/4 cup = 60 ml; 4 oz = 110g; 1 cup = 240 ml; 350 F = 175 C; 7 oz = 200g; 1 US pint = 470 ml.

Pumpkin Pie

It's almost Thanksgiving here in the U.S., and pumpkins have been available for a little while now. Time to start thinking about making pumpkin pie! First, a few words about the pumpkins themselves. There are several different kinds of pumpkins available on the market. Most are Jack pumpkins, which are ideal for carving, but are very bland when it comes to eating. The first pumpkin pie I made, shown above, was made with Jack pumpkin (although it was advertised as a 'pie pumpkin') - see below:

The next one, I used kuri squash for - a red squash, very good for soups and, it turns out, 'pumpkin' pies:

This resulted in:

For my Thanksgiving pie, I am going to use a Cheese Pumpkin. These are supposedly very good for pumpkin pie:

Anyway, whatever kind of pumpkin you end up using, the process is pretty much the same. First, you half and deseed the pumpkin and bake it until the flesh is soft. You puree the flesh and set it aside. Next, make pastry for the crust and pre-bake it (blind). Lastly, you make the filling with the puree, fill the pastry shell and bake until set. The following recipe is adapted from 'The Art of Simple Food' by Alice Waters. It makes one 9 inch pie.


Pumpkin Puree
Cut your pumpkin in half with a heavy knife and scoop out the seeds (save, clean and roast for a snack if desired). Put both halves cut-side down on a baking sheet and bake at 350 F until tender (a butter knife slides into the flesh easily). Allow to cool, then scoop the flesh out, leaving the skin behind. If you have a food mill, put the flesh through to puree it; otherwise you can mash it with a potato masher or fork.
You will need 15 oz of your puree for one 9 inch pie. A small pumpkin should yield about that much, but a big one may result in a lot more. The cheese pumpkin above will probably be enough for 3 pies! Extra puree could be used to make pumpkin ravioli, soup, pumpkin bread, pancakes etc.


Pastry
(9 oz flour, 8 oz cold butter, 1 egg, cold water)
Follow the instructions here, allowing for the fact that you will have at least twice as much dough as you need. You can stop at 'Now put the pan in the refrigerator while you make the filling.' This will leave you with half the dough in the refrigerator, wrapped, a pie shell in a pie pan, also in the refrigerator, and some dough scraps that you cut away from the pan. Combine the scraps with the wrapped dough, press pretty flat, wrap again, tightly, and either freeze or keep in the refrigerator to use for another tart or pie. Let the pie shell rest in the fridge for a total of 1 hour, then remove, prick the base of the shell with a fork, line with foil, cover with pie weights (I use uncooked dried beans, reserved for this use) and bake for 15 minutes at 375 F. Remove foil and weights and bake another 5 or so minutes until golden. Remove from oven and allow to cool while you make the filling.


Filling
In a small saucepan, whisk 1/4 cup cream and 2 tsp flour together and boil until they thicken. Whisk in another 3/4 cup cream and boil again. Allow to cool a little. Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk together 15 oz pumpkin puree (see above), 3 eggs, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 2 tbsp pumpkin pie spice (a mix of ground spices - usually cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and allspice or clove), a pinch of salt and a glug of maple syrup. Lastly, whisk in the cream mixture.


Finishing
Pour the filling into your shell. Bake at 375 F for about 45 minutes - until the center of the filling is almost set. Cool on a rack, then cut and serve with whipped cream (I flavored mine with nutmeg and a little powdered sugar). Enjoy!


Note 1 - If you do not want to use fresh pumpkin, you could substitute canned pumpkin puree (not pumpkin pie filling - it should only contain pumpkin). Use the same amount. It should work OK.


Note 2 - Metric Info: 350 F = 175 C; 15 oz = 425g; 9 inches = 23 cm; 9 oz = 255g; 8 oz = 225g; 375 F = 190 C; 1/4 cup = 60 ml; 3/4 cup = 180 ml; 1/2 cup = 120 ml.

Apple Pie

'Tis the season for apple pie. Plenty of good apples available from local orchards. I went with a lattice pattern (by request) instead of a solid top. It was a bit more work, but I think it was worth it.

Start by preparing the pie dough. Put 9 oz (about 2 cups) flour into a medium-sized bowl, and add 8 oz cold butter, cut into thin slices, and a good pinch of salt. With your hands, rub the butter into the flour with your fingers until only a few large flecks are visible. Now add 1 egg, beaten, made up to 1/2 cup in volume with ice cold water (I use cold water and put the egg-water mix in the freezer for a few minutes while I rub in the butter). Knead the liquid into the flour for no more than a minute. The dough will be wet. Sprinkle over some flour and pat into a rectangle. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour (or as long as a day if you like; you can also freeze the dough for months).

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and cut the rectangle in two. Replace one half in the fridge, and roll the other out into a thin round (use as much flour as needed to avoid it sticking to your work surface). Make sure it is big enough to line your pie pan. I used a 9 inch pan. Grease the pan with butter first, then lay the pastry in it, cutting around the edge to get rid of any overhang. Now put the pan in the refrigerator while you make the filling.

You will need a bunch of apples. I used 3 lb of Gala apples. You can use whatever kind of apple you desire, but you may not need as much as 3 lb - my pie was a little stuffed. I think it would have worked with just over 2 lb of apples.

Peel, core and slice your apples. Work quickly to avoid browning. I put the slices into a bowl and sprinkled them with a little lemon juice, then added about 1 cup brown sugar, 2 tbsp flour, 1 tsp cinnamon and a few grindings of fresh nutmeg (or a shake of ground). You could also add a small pinch of salt. If the apples are too juicy, add more flour; if they are too tart, add more sugar. Pile the apples into the pie crust and set aside. Roll out the rest of your dough (add your scraps from the shell also) to about the same thickness as you did the shell and cut long strips of roughly equal width. Using a finger dipped in water to 'glue' the strips to the pie shell, make your criss-cross lattice over the apples by alternating the directions of the strips. I started by going across the middle and worked my way towards the edges but it doesn't really matter which order you do it in.

Once you are finished assembling the pie, tidy up the edge of the crust and set your pan on a cookie sheet or similar (to collect any juice that might leak from the pie). Bake at 425 F for 25 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 F for another 30 minutes or so, until the pastry is nicely golden and the apples are soft. Allow to cool most of the way to room temperature before serving, with cream or ice cream. Enjoy!

Note 1 - This is my favorite pie dough recipe. It is based on one in 'A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes' by David Tanis. An awesome cookbook.

Note 2 - Metric Info: 9 oz = 260g; 8 oz = 225g; 1/2 cup = 120 ml; 9 inches = 23 cm; 3 lb = 1.4 kg; 2 lb =  900g; 1 cup = 240 ml; 425 F = 220 C; 350 F = 180 C.

Pasta e Fagioli

Now, this is good winter food. Warm and hearty, pasta e fagioli (pronounced 'pasta fashool'), or Italian pasta and bean soup/stew, is perfect for those cold nights that are on the way... I already made it twice in the last month. It is one of my favorite meals, and is pretty easy to make.

Which type of beans you use is up to you. Cranberry beans are ideal, but can be hard to find. I used pinto this time, but cannellini or kidney beans are good too. You can use either dried or canned beans. I like to use dried if I have them, as they tend to hold their shape better - canned beans can get a little mushy. If using dried beans, soak 1 cup in plenty of cold water overnight. The next day, boil them in salted water until tender (beginning to get soft, offering no resistance to your teeth when you bite into them), drain and set aside to cool until needed. If using canned beans, there is no prep to do the night before.

When you are ready to make the soup, start by cutting about 2 tbsp onion (about 1/4 of an average onion) into small dice. Splash a good glug of olive oil into a large heavy saucepan and saute the onion until it starts to color. Then add about 3 tbsp carrot (peeled and diced small) and 2 tbsp celery, diced small. Stir, and add a couple of slices of bacon or pancetta, cut into small dice (this is optional - I did it on one of the two occasions, but not on the time I took the picture above). Saute until the vegetables soften - about 10 minutes. Add 2/3 cup chopped canned tomatoes and juice, and simmer until cooked down. Add either your cooked dried beans or 3 cups of canned beans (you'll probably need more than one 14 oz can). Cook for a few minutes, then add 3 cups of broth (beef, chicken, vegetable or even plain old water). Bring it to a boil. Scoop out 1/2 cup of beans and either mash them or push them through a food mill back into the soup. Taste and adjust seasoning. Bring back to a boil and add 8 oz small tubular pasta (macaroni works, but I like ditalini even better). Keep boiling (stirring as you go) until the pasta is just done (a slight bite to it - don't allow it to get too soft), then switch off the heat and stir in 1 tbsp butter and 2 tbsp hard Italian cheese, grated (parmesan, romano or asiago - I like pecorino romano myself).

Allow the soup to cool a little before serving. This recipe will serve 2-4 people, depending on how hungry they are. Enjoy!

Note 1 - Recipe adapted from one in 'Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking' by Marcella Hazan.

Note 2 - Metric Info: 1 cup = 240 ml; 2/3 cup = 160 ml; 3 cups = 700 ml; 14 oz = 400 g; 1/2 cup = 120 ml; 8 oz = 225 g.