Corn Chowder

Yep, it's summer. Local corn is now in season here in Vermont, and we just got our first ears from our Full Moon Farm CSA share. We also got some beautiful red skin potatoes, so my first thought was Corn Chowder!

This recipe is based on one from The Professional Chef, a CIA textbook (that's the Culinary Institute of America, not the other CIA...).

Start by rendering 4 oz diced pancetta (or bacon, if you prefer) in a large saucepan or small stockpot. This means to cook it under medium-low heat so that the fat 'melts' out without the meat getting too crispy. Once there is plenty of fat in the bottom of the pan, add 1 onion, diced, 1/2 red pepper, diced and 2 ribs celery, diced, and sweat them (keep the heat low and allow them to soften without browning. Once your vegetables are soft, add 4 oz flour. Stir to coat everything with the flour and allow it to begin to color gently. You do not want the flour to brown. Once you can see a very pale golden color, start gradually whisking in 2 quarts stock (see Note 1 below). Bring the stock to a simmer; simmer for 25 minutes to cook out the floury flavor.

Next, shuck and remove the kernels from 8 ears of corn (see note 4). The easiest way to do this is stand the cob up in a shallow bowl, and cut down the sides with a knife, separating the kernels from the cob. Puree half of the kernels in  a blender or food processor. Add the whole kernels and the puree to the soup, along with about 2 lb potatoes, peeled and diced. Taste, and add salt and pepper if necessary. Simmer 25 minutes to cook the potatoes through.

Lastly, add 1 pint milk and 1 pint cream (or 1 quart of half-and-half). Bring back to a simmer, taste, check seasoning and adjust, and serve, with Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces on the table. Enjoy!

Note 1 - You can decide what kind of stock to use. You could use purchased vegetable or chicken broth, or make your own. I made a vegetable stock using 1/2 onion, some celery scraps, a little fennel (not required), the corn cobs (after removing the kernels) and some water. Simmered it while I started the soup, and measured out 2 qts.

Note 2 - To make this soup vegetarian, use a vegetarian stock, and 4 tbsp (2 oz) butter in place of the pancetta. Once it is melted, you can sweat your vegetables in it.

Note 3 - Corn = sweetcorn for those across the Pond.

Note 4 - How many ears of corn you need really depends on how large they are. If you have big fat ears, use 8. If your ears are smaller, use more (up to 12).

Note 5 - Metric Info: 4 oz = 115 g; 2 qts = 1.9 litres; 2 lb = 900 g; 1 pint = 470 ml; 1 qt = 950 ml; 2 oz = 55 g.

New England Clam Chowder

Garnished with scallions, sriracha and worcestershire sauce

Someone I know just returned from a trip to Cape Cod. Made me think about what I like about the Cape. Clam Chowder - possibly my favorite soup (although when local corn is in season, corn chowder gives it a serious run for its money...). The weather has been pretty hot, but as soon as I started thinking about 'chowda' I had to make it. To hell with the heat - I want soup! This recipe is from 'On Cooking' by Sarah Labensky and Alan Hause.

I would usually buy fresh clams to make chowder, but this time, cash was a little tight, so I opted for canned clams instead. I was impressed with the results.

Start with about 1 quart of canned clams (I bought three 10 oz cans). Drain the liquid from the cans into a quart measuring cup. Do not discard it! Add water to make it up to a full quart. Reserve the clams.

Peel and dice 10 oz potatoes. Add to your quart of clam liquid in a pan and cook until tender. Drain liquid into a container, reserving it and the potatoes.

Render the fat from 4 oz of pancetta or bacon (I used pancetta, but bacon works just as well). That is to say, cook it in a stockpot on medium heat so that it releases its fat. Once it starts to brown, remove the meat and reserve. Add to the fat in the pan 8 oz diced onion and 4 oz diced celery. Saute until tender (but do not allow them to color much). Add 2 oz flour and stir until it turns light brown (this is called a blond roux). Add your clam liquid, a bay leaf and a small pinch of dried thyme, whisking as you go. Simmer for 20 minutes, whisking occasionally to break up any lumps.

Bring 2 cups milk and 0.5 cups cream to a boil. Add them to the soup. Stir. Add the potatoes, pancetta or bacon and clams and continue to heat gently to warm through. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaf and discard it.

Serve with freshly ground black pepper, Tabasco sauce (or Sriracha) and Worcestershire sauce on hand for your diners to add to taste. Other good accompaniments include fresh thyme, sliced scallions and oyster crackers. Enjoy!

Makes about 6-8 servings.

Note 1 - The original recipe used salt pork. I have never come across salt pork. If anyone else has, I would welcome their input on it. I used thin-sliced pancetta. I like the consistency of it in the soup.

Note 2 - Metric info: 1 quart = 950 ml; 10 oz = 280g; 4 oz = 115g; 8 oz = 230g; 2 oz = 60g; 2 cups = 470 ml; 0.5 cups = 120 ml.