Butter Pecan Ice Cream

It was time to make ice cream again, so I asked my significant other for a suggestion. She decided on this one - butter pecan. This was the first ice cream I have made with stir-ins (not that they were difficult, but...).

Start by getting together 7 oz brown sugar. Split roughly in half so that you have 2 batches.

Take 2 oz (1/2 stick) butter and melt it in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Continue to heat over medium heat until it turns golden brown (do not allow it to get dark brown!). Turn down the heat a little and stir in 1 batch of brown sugar. Next, add 2 cups of half-and-half, stirring to make sure the sugar is dissolved. Continue to heat, but keep an eye on it, and do not allow it to boil.

Meanwhile, whisk the other batch of brown sugar with 5 egg yolks in a medium bowl. Set up another medium-large bowl on ice, with a strainer sitting on top of it. Once the half-and-half mixture is close to a boil (you can see tiny bubbles forming around the edges of the pan), ladle some of this mixture onto the yolks and whisk in. Tip the entire contents of the yolk bowl back into the saucepan, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon, continuing to heat the mixture, until it coats the back of your spoon (a line drawn in the mixture on the back of the spoon does not fill in). Once you reach this point, immediately pour the mixture through the strainer into the chilled bowl. Stir it a little to help it cool down. Transfer to the refrigerator to chill once it has cooled a little.

While your 'base' is cooling, toast 1/2 cup of pecans (I prefer to buy whole pecans, but you can use pieces - just check them sooner in the oven). Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and bake at 350 F for about 7 minutes, until lightly browned. Allow to cool completely, and cut into bite-sized pieces.

Once the 'base' is chilled, pour into an ice cream maker and churn. Once almost solid (or as close to this as your ice cream maker gets), transfer into a bowl. Stir in the nuts, trying to distribute them evenly through the ice cream. Transfer your ice cream back into a freezer-suitable container (I use plastic quart size yogurt containers) and freeze until hardened. Enjoy!

Note 1 - For those outside North America, half-and-half is half milk, half cream.

Note 2 - Be careful not to let your half-and-half mixture boil, even before adding the yolks. Mine did the first time, and it curdled, so I had to throw it out and start over.

Note 3 - Metric Info: 7 oz = 200g; 2 oz = 55g; 2 cups = 475 ml; 1/2 cup = 120 ml; 350 F = 175 C.

Pesto

Ready for the freezer

I made pesto today. Had a big basil plant (complete with roots!) from the farm, plus we have a few small plants in our 'garden' (actually just a 4x4 foot raised bed, but home to zucchini, tomatoes, basil, parsley, peppers and brussels sprouts). I picked up good cheese (I was intending to buy Parmigiano-Reggiano, but they didn't have any, so I got Pecorino Romano, which was even better...) and pine nuts and I was ready to go.

The easiest way to make pesto is in a food processor. Start with about 4 cups of basil leaves. Put them in the processor bowl with 4 cloves of garlic and pulse until everything is nicely chopped. Scrape down the sides and add 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted (place on a baking sheet in a 350 F oven for about 5 minutes) and up to 1/2 cup of grated hard cheese (preferably Romano or Parmesan). Pulse again until everything is chopped. Now remove the bowl from the processor, take out the blade, and stir in 3/4 cup olive oil, stirring until it is all mixed in. Taste and add salt if desired.

That's it! I immediately froze it in plastic freezer bags to use later (pesto freezes very well), but you could use it straight away. For simple pasta with pesto sauce, cook pasta in heavily salted water until done to your liking (do not rely on the timing on the side of the box - use it as a guide and check often by pulling a piece and tasting it). Remove the pasta from the water with tongs or a pasta spoon, putting it in a warm bowl. Do not throw out the pasta water! Add some pesto to the pasta in the bowl, stirring to combine. Now add a little pasta water (use a ladle or spoon) to thin the sauce to your desired consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Enjoy!

Note 1 - The olive oil is stirred in instead of processing it because the latter can result in a bitter flavor.

Note 2 - If you do not have a food processor, you can use a blender, or even a mortar and pestle (this last would be more authentic, but I prefer the food processor...).

Note 3 - Metric Info: 4 cups = 950 ml; 1/4 cup = 60 ml; 350 F = 175 C; 1/2 cup = 120 ml; 3/4 cup = 180 ml.

Apple Sauce

Home-made apple sauce is pretty easy. You just need a lot of apples. I made a small batch - almost exactly a pint - with just over 2 lb of Paula Red apples. The type of apple is not important, although many people believe that a mix of different apples is best for flavor.

Start by peeling, coring and slicing your apples. I would strongly recommend setting up a bowl of water with a squirt of lemon juice in it first (this is called 'acidulated water', and prevents the slices from browning), and putting the slices in it as you go. Drain the slices and put in a pan with 1/2 cup water and a few appropriate spices - I used a couple of cloves, a star anise and a small stick of cinnamon. Heat on high for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft. Remove the spices, push through a food mill (alternatively, leave chunky or puree in a blender or food processor), and return to the pan, bringing it back to a boil before tasting and adding sugar if desired. I added 2-3 tbsp sugar. Either can the sauce (into a pint jar or 2 half pints, leaving 1/2 inch headspace, tightening and processing in a boiling water bath for 15 minutes) or cool and refrigerate.

Note 1 - If canning, see the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning for safety guidelines.

Note 2 - Metric Info: 1 pint = 470 ml; 2 lb = 900g; 1/2 cup = 120 ml.

Peach Tart

Went to Shelburne Orchards the other day to pick peaches and apples. The apples were Paula Reds - not my favorite eating apple, so I made apple sauce out of them, but the peaches were delicious - the best I have had in quite some time. They blew store-bought peaches out of the water. While amazing freshly-picked ripe peaches are probably best eaten out of hand, if you have plenty or can only get the store-bought kind, try making a tart!

Start by making your dough. I made a pretty small tart (I only used 1 peach, but I would recommend 2), so I started with 2/3 cup flour, 2 oz (half a stick) of cold butter, diced, and a pinch of salt in a food processor. Put 1/6 cup cold water in the freezer for a few minutes to get really cold. Take out the water and pour it in through the pour spout while you pulse the dough. Only mix until it forms a big lump, then stop. Remove from the bowl of the food processor and form into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

After an hour (you can leave it in the refrigerator for a while if you want, but you'll have to give it a few minutes at room temperature before you roll it), remove from the refrigerator. Flatten the ball a little to form a disc. Unwrap and place on a floured counter top. Flour the dough and your rolling pin. Roll out into a 1/8 inch thick round (this made for about a 7 inch diameter tart). Place on a piece of parchment paper and refrigerate again for a few minutes to firm it up.

Meanwhile, peel 2 peaches. If they are very ripe, you should be able to remove the skin easily with your fingers. If not, score a very shallow 'x' in the skin and plunge into boiling water for 20 seconds, then into ice water. It should now come away easily. Cut the peaches in half, remove the pits, and slice fairly thickly. Set aside for a few minutes.

In a small bowl, combine 1 tbsp flour, 1 tbsp sugar and 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon.

Remove your dough round from the refrigerator and place in or on a greased (with butter) pan. Sprinkle your flour-sugar mixture on the dough, starting at the center and working out towards the edges. Leave a 1/2 to 3/4 inch border of dough empty. Arrange your sliced peaches on top of the flour-sugar mixture. They do not need to overlap but try not to leave gaps in between them. Fold the dough border up over the fruit. Brush the pastry edge with a little melted butter and sprinkle with sugar. Sprinkle sugar over the fruit (you will not need much if they are ripe, but use more if not).

Bake your tart in a preheated 375 F oven on the bottom shelf until the base of the dough is golden brown - at least 45 minutes. Once out of the oven, you can brush the top of the tart with melted jam if you wish (I used redcurrant jelly) - this is called a 'glaze'. Allow to cool a little, slice and serve. Enjoy!

Note - Metric Info: 2/3 cup = 160 ml; 2 oz = 55g; 375 F = 190 C.

Pizza

Last piece!

I love home-made pizza. I enjoy the freedom of putting whatever I want on it, and knowing where all the ingredients came from. We made this Veggie Supreme pizza with almost all organic ingredients (the exceptions being the olives, the olive oil used to cook the sauce and onions, and the olive oil used on the crust).

You can of course use the recipe for the pizza base and top it with whatever you like.

I started by making the dough and leaving it to rise, and then I prepared all of the topping ingredients. Once the dough was ready to roll, all I the had to do was top and bake.

The following dough recipe is adapted from 'Local Breads' by Daniel Leader and Lauren Chattman, and is the best I have found so far.

Pizza Dough (1 large pizza - feeds 2 hungry adults)

Combine in the bowl of a food mixer - 7.5 oz water (room temperature), 8.8 oz flour, 0.1 oz active dry yeast and 0.2 oz salt. Knead in your mixer on medium-high speed for 12 minutes, then on full speed for 3 min. more. Scrape into a lightly oiled, straight-sided container and mark where it will reach once it has tripled in size. Leave it in a warm place and allow it to do just that - it should take at least 2 hours. While you are waiting, you can prepare the toppings - see below). Once it has tripled in size, dump it out onto a floured counter and push it with your fingers into a rough rectangle (or circle if you prefer). Brush the top with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with salt.

The goal, after adding your toppings, is to get the pizza into a hot oven on a preheated surface so that the base crisps up quickly. The problem is that the dough is sticky. There are two options as far as I see it.

Option 1 - Preheat the oven to 500 F with a pizza stone or upturned baking tray on the middle shelf. Allow time for the stone to heat up. Take a pizza peel or another upturned baking tray and place a piece of parchment paper on top. Flour the paper and then put the dough on top. Once topped, it can now be slid off the peel onto the stone.

Option 2 - Put the dough onto a stovetop-safe baking tray or into a large oven-safe pan (this would be easier with a round pizza). Add toppings and place pan directly on the stove on high heat. Once you hear some good sizzling, transfer it to the oven (preheated to 500 F).

Whichever option you choose, bake for 15-20 minutes. Remove. Allow to cool slightly. Cut and serve.


Veggie Supreme Toppings

We used the following toppings for our pizza: caramelized onions, home-made tomato sauce, sliced button mushrooms, sliced green peppers, sliced black olives, shredded cheese and torn basil leaves (this last one added after baking). Everything except for the first two was added raw.

Caramelized onions

Slice 1 onion. Add plenty of olive oil (or a good chunk of butter) to a small skillet and heat to medium. Tip in the onion and a little salt. Stir occasionally, and add more oil if it is looking dry. Turn the heat down if the onions are starting to brown (they should gradually turn light brown, but no more). Once soft and sweet, switch off the heat and set aside ready to top the pizza.

Tomato Sauce

For this sauce, you can use fresh or canned tomatoes.
For fresh: blanch 1 lb tomatoes - prepare some boiling water in a pan, and some ice water in a bowl. Score a very light 'x' in the bottom of each tomato with a small knife. Drop the tomatoes in the boiling water. Leave in the water for 15 seconds only. Remove and drop in the ice water. Remove from the ice water and peel off the skins (start at the 'x' - it should be easy now). Chop roughly.
For canned - substitute one 14 oz can plum tomatoes (chopped or whole, which can me broken with a spoon).
Sweat 1 onion, diced and 1 clove garlic, minced in olive oil until soft. Add the tomatoes and 1/2 tsp dried oregano and cook gently until thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Allow to cool until ready to top the pizza.


Note 1 - I used option 2, which worked very nicely, but I have used option 1 for baking bread, and I know it works too.

Note 2 - This pizza is vegetarian. It can be made vegan by omitting the cheese.

Note 3 - Metric Info: 7.5 oz = 210g; 8.8 oz = 250g; 0.1 oz = 2.8g; 0.2 oz = 5.7g; 500 F = 260 C; 1 lb = 450g; 14 oz = 400g .

Blackberry Jam

I was the fortunate recipient of a pile of organic blackberries from a generous co-worker. I had been wanting to make blackberry jam for a little while. I used to pick wild blackberries as a child with my mother, so eating them brings back good memories.

This recipe is based on one in the Joy of Cooking, currently my jam bible. It makes five half pints.

Wash 2 lb blackberries and put in a stockpot with 1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and grated, 1 tbsp lemon juice, a 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated, and 3 cups (1.5 lb) sugar. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring regularly, until the mixture reaches the gelling point (221 F at sea level). Switch off the heat, skim off any excess of scum, and ladle through a funnel into 5 sterilized half pint jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace between the jam and the lid (lids and bands should also be sterilized).

If you do not want to can the jam, cover, tighten, allow to cool and refrigerate for up to 4 months.

If you do want to can the jam, cover, tighten and process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes (at sea level). Allow to cool, check seals and store (if not sealed, tighten and process again, and if still not sealed afterwards, allow to cool, store in the refrigerator and eat straight away).

If canning, consult the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning for important safety information.

Note - Metric Info: 2 lb = 900 g; 1 inch = 2.5 cm; 3 cups = 710 ml; 1.5 lb = 680 g; 221 F = 105 C; 1/4 inch = 6 mm.

Corn Chowder

Yep, it's summer. Local corn is now in season here in Vermont, and we just got our first ears from our Full Moon Farm CSA share. We also got some beautiful red skin potatoes, so my first thought was Corn Chowder!

This recipe is based on one from The Professional Chef, a CIA textbook (that's the Culinary Institute of America, not the other CIA...).

Start by rendering 4 oz diced pancetta (or bacon, if you prefer) in a large saucepan or small stockpot. This means to cook it under medium-low heat so that the fat 'melts' out without the meat getting too crispy. Once there is plenty of fat in the bottom of the pan, add 1 onion, diced, 1/2 red pepper, diced and 2 ribs celery, diced, and sweat them (keep the heat low and allow them to soften without browning. Once your vegetables are soft, add 4 oz flour. Stir to coat everything with the flour and allow it to begin to color gently. You do not want the flour to brown. Once you can see a very pale golden color, start gradually whisking in 2 quarts stock (see Note 1 below). Bring the stock to a simmer; simmer for 25 minutes to cook out the floury flavor.

Next, shuck and remove the kernels from 8 ears of corn (see note 4). The easiest way to do this is stand the cob up in a shallow bowl, and cut down the sides with a knife, separating the kernels from the cob. Puree half of the kernels in  a blender or food processor. Add the whole kernels and the puree to the soup, along with about 2 lb potatoes, peeled and diced. Taste, and add salt and pepper if necessary. Simmer 25 minutes to cook the potatoes through.

Lastly, add 1 pint milk and 1 pint cream (or 1 quart of half-and-half). Bring back to a simmer, taste, check seasoning and adjust, and serve, with Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces on the table. Enjoy!

Note 1 - You can decide what kind of stock to use. You could use purchased vegetable or chicken broth, or make your own. I made a vegetable stock using 1/2 onion, some celery scraps, a little fennel (not required), the corn cobs (after removing the kernels) and some water. Simmered it while I started the soup, and measured out 2 qts.

Note 2 - To make this soup vegetarian, use a vegetarian stock, and 4 tbsp (2 oz) butter in place of the pancetta. Once it is melted, you can sweat your vegetables in it.

Note 3 - Corn = sweetcorn for those across the Pond.

Note 4 - How many ears of corn you need really depends on how large they are. If you have big fat ears, use 8. If your ears are smaller, use more (up to 12).

Note 5 - Metric Info: 4 oz = 115 g; 2 qts = 1.9 litres; 2 lb = 900 g; 1 pint = 470 ml; 1 qt = 950 ml; 2 oz = 55 g.